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interviews

Film screening and PowderPeople | Ialakha by Heli Hoffmann and Sammy Theurer

... about crossing the Caucasus on skis.

by Sebastian Müller 12/22/2023
Ialakha is a remarkable ski adventure film that was recently released. It tells the story of a 60 km long and 4000 metre high traverse in the Caucasus in Georgia, on skis of course and with a few spine walls in mind. We are delighted to gain even deeper insights into the project in an interview with Heli Hoffmann, the author, and Sammy Theurer, the film maker. The two were accompanied by Eva Stribrna (photos), Yessica Kurock, Levi Seiferheld and local Zura Phaliani. They were also supported by other locals from Ghebi and their horses and were occasionally followed by dogs.

Ciao Sammy, ciao Heli,

We have now seen Ialakha and congratulate you on making it through and also on the very successful film adaptation! Let me ask you a stupid question first, how did it end with the dogs? It seems like you started with two and came back with four!

Sammy: Well, that's one thing about dogs in Georgia. They're everywhere and they usually follow the people they find most interesting. And when we passed a group of farm labourers, two more dogs joined us (perhaps for that very reason).

Heli: Unfortunately, the story of the construction workers didn't make it into the film. We actually assumed that we wouldn't meet a soul on the traverse. On day 5, we had to bootpack for most of the day due to the lack of snow in the valley. Suddenly we heard a deep honking sound through the valley, but at first we didn't know where it was coming from? A boat? Probably not up here. So it must be lorries. And so it was: due to the mild winter, the pass road to Ushguli was already partially passable and the repair work was already in full swing. And whether we wanted to or not, two more dogs followed us from there. As two dogs were enough for us, we tried to send the other two away. At first we were successful. But when we pitched our tents a few hours later, they came back. At first, 'our' two dogs didn't find that funny at all.

PG: Thank you for clarifying that right away. Next question, clarification of terms, what does Ialakha mean?

Sammy: IALAKHA is a Svan word. Svan is spoken in the Svaneti region and is a bit like Rhaeto-Romanic here. Translated, it means something like: Everything you are, you feel, that is you - and you can be happy about that! - As if by chance, exactly the motto for our project.

PG: Sammy, let me come back to you first. How did you get into outdoor filming and in particular filming Ialakha? And apart from filming, what are your own interests in the mountains?

Sammy: I got into outdoor photography through climbing. However, I made one of my first films early on about a ski manufacturer from Freiburg. And since my greatest passion has always been winter and the mountains, I was all the more pleased to be able to combine work and career this winter and realise my first 'real' ski documentary!

PG: It seems like Heli is the mastermind of the company. How would you describe him in three sentences, without a comma?

Sammy: Heli sets his mind to things and then puts them into practice. Calm and composed, but always focussed. The perfect partner for any project in the mountains.

PG: Heli, what do you have to counter that? How would you describe yourself and how did you come up with the idea of Ialakha? Have you travelled in the Caucasus before? What ambitions did you have for the Spine Walls?

Heli: No, I would agree with that. If I've thought through a project too many times in my head, then I have to try it out. I've been to Georgia several times. I first did a voluntary social year there with an NGO. During that year, I got to know the local mountains, as well as some very good friends who were also here on the Traverse.
The trigger for the project was a spine wall, a snow-covered slope that stretches like narrow fingers from the summit towards the valley floor, which we skied in winter 22/23. When Levi and I discovered more of it on the map, the idea of exploring the region even further naturally came up.

PG: And how did you come up with Sammy as a filmmaker and how would you describe him in three sentences?

Heli: Sammy and I got to know each other a few years ago through climbing. We've realised a few sporting projects since then, but mostly not on film. When I told Sammy about my idea for this project, he naturally wanted to realise it as a documentary film.
When Sammy sets himself a goal, he does everything he can to realise it as perfectly as possible. This perfectionist realisation sometimes means that other things get left behind, such as his snowboard boots, which are just as important. (laughs)

PG: Sammy, back to you, as a film maker you have an extra burden, both in terms of time investment and weight, how do you deal with that?

Sammy: I'm busy giving weight to the others (laughs). Seriously, as I do this full-time, I have the privilege of being able to call the mountain of tasks that such a big project entails my work. And even if it can sometimes be difficult to appreciate this privilege during the stressful phases, in the end I know what I'm doing it all for!

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PG: Your traverse is (probably) a remarkable first ascent. How do you rate the potential of the Caucasus? You had difficult conditions, but is it a second Alaska? Of course, the climatic conditions are very variable, but the terrain seems special!

Sammy: I haven't (unfortunately) been to Alaska yet, but the zone we skied in alone would have had potential for two more ski films. Not to mention all the zones we weren't able to see due to the bad weather. So to summarise from my perspective: Yes, a second Alaska! - albeit with a different infrastructure.

Heli: It wasn't my first time there in the Georgian Caucasus. The winter before, we had perfect conditions, even on the south-facing spin walls and large slopes. And as other projects there have already shown, there is still a lot to discover here. The terrain ranges from large open faces to finely branched spines. The difference to the Alps is that you are very quickly far away from any civilisation. A paradise if you fancy taking unknown steps and want to work out the descent yourself.


PG: You were travelling in terrain without the usual safety infrastructure, without avalanche reports and probably also without mobile phone reception. How did you deal with this? What were your checkpoints? The ascent to the pass looked sketchy. How did you communicate this within the group? Were there any thoughts of turning back?

Sammy: Turning back was always an option for us in advance. And we communicated that to the group in advance. However, as we had already covered 30 km at the pass and it would have been just as far back as to the end point, it wasn't an easy choice. The decision to continue and cross the pass was then communicated together and everyone realised that we had to get through it quickly. Of course, the fact that we still had to bootpack to the top made the whole thing more exciting than we would have liked.

Heli: The mobile phone reception was gone after half a day and only came back shortly before our destination - Ushguli. We all realised that the crossing would be an attempt and we didn't know whether we would have to turn back on day 2,3,.... Many factors, such as a river that couldn't be crossed or luggage that was too heavy, could have quickly forced us to turn back. And yet we wanted to try out whether the idea of crossing was possible. Not least because we wanted to finally see the Spine Walls, which we had scouted on Fatmap, with our own eyes.

However, there were a few points to clarify beforehand: Is there rescue by helicopter in an emergency? Do we equip ourselves with satellite phones so that we can call for help or someone can find us? Are there "simpler/faster" options for aborting the tour if someone in the group is injured and we have to get this person to the nearest civilisation ourselves?

We had to clarify the questions in advance. It was also important to me that each team member was well versed in snow conditions and avalanche awareness so that we could make a well-founded assessment of the situation together, i.e. ultimately whether we could ski/run on a slope or not. We also had Zura with us, who spends the whole winter in the Svaneti mountain region and therefore knows and can assess the snow and weather conditions even better than we do.

In the end, however, the idea of turning back never really came up. At least not in a way that anyone would have voiced it. There was also no situation that would have required it. We decided to make the crossing over the pass, which we categorised as quite dangerous, as quickly as possible. Our avalanche problem at this point: wet snow. However, we were all aware of the problem and decided as a group to complete this ascent as quickly as possible. We also tried to complete the descent on the other side as quickly as possible.

PG: What worst-case scenario did you prepare for? Did you have food with you for another x days?

Sammy: We tried to go through all possible scenarios in advance and prepare for them. Accordingly, we had an extended first-aid kit with a wide range of emergency medication. We also wanted to be prepared for injuries such as broken bones etc. just in case. We had food and gas cartridges with us for 10 days and more than enough for each day. In the end, I have to say that we were extremely well prepared and very little of this materialised. That's a good thing!

Heli: We had food with us for about 9 days, probably a bit more.
A worst-case scenario for us would have been if one of us had been injured and we had no air support. In this case, we would have had to organise the rescue of the person to the nearest inhabited village ourselves. We therefore checked in advance where these villages were located and whether they were actually inhabited.

PG: You didn't really get to ski that much, apparently because of the conditions. What time of year were you travelling and how would you describe the snow conditions? What would you do differently next time?

Sammy: We were travelling in April. Normally a very snowy and weather-safe time in Georgia. Unfortunately, the generally bad winter also made itself felt on site. We weren't able to ski much, mainly because of the bad weather, so my learning for next time is definitely to bring more time with you. This time, the time window in which everyone had time was extremely tight.

Heli: That's right, yes. At the end of March to the beginning of April, there is often a lot of rainfall. In some places, however, it is already spring-like at this time of year. We had a lot of precipitation before our tour started, but the 0° limit was also at 3000 metres. The whole winter was otherwise quite dry and it was also far too warm most of the time in Georgia. In my eyes, we couldn't have done anything better in such a year. A few weeks earlier it was even colder, but there were massive weak layers in the snow cover. The rain naturally helped to stabilise the snowpack a little, but of course it meant less powder on the runs.
In this situation, we couldn't have done anything better - wait for a better winter, which we hope this one will be - and then come back again.

PG: Perhaps we also need to talk about equipment. What were the essentials for you and how did you feed yourselves? And of course, how freeride-orientated were you, i.e. what was the average width of your skis? Minimum and maximum plus standard deviation of the group please!

Sammy: In fact, the large Deuter backpack was a revelation for me. Never tried it on, but it fitted everyone perfectly! And made the 35 kg at least somewhat bearable. We ate dry food from the Travellunch company. We had three pairs of skis and three splitboards under our feet (they lasted surprisingly well). The centre width ranged from 95 mm to 275 mm. Alpine freeriding, so to speak (laughs).

PG: You were travelling as a group of six, which may seem like a lot for this kind of undertaking. How did the group come together? What do you have to say about the other four?

Sammy: Six people was the defined upper limit for us in advance. A smaller group would certainly have been easier to organise and quicker to make decisions. However, a big plus was that we could share the weight of the cookers, tents etc. and take weight off each other depending on how we were feeling on the day. That was very helpful, even for me as a film maker. I didn't have to carry all the batteries myself.

Heli: I realised relatively quickly that there should be no fewer than four people in case we got into an emergency situation. But no more than six either, then you slow down again. Levi and Eva have been in Georgia for the whole season and I've already been on a few wild tours with them. They also have a similar mindset to me - we like to try things out and are enthusiastic about the pioneering spirit that gives rise to a project like this. It's an exciting feeling when you don't know in advance whether everything will work out the way you imagined.
Zura is a Georgian friend who is also extremely fit in the mountains and works as a guide for the entire season. Sammy joined us from home as a film maker and good touring partner and Yessi, a friend of Sammy's, jumped in at short notice. She normally works as a ski instructor and researches ski cores. So we all had a strong connection to ski touring.

PG: What conclusions do you draw from the concept of traversing? Would you rather set up a base camp with more comfort, time and flexibility or is a traverse always more appealing?

Sammy: A base camp would have the advantage that it would 'only' be 1-2 days of walking with heavy luggage on large pulkas. However, I still find the mode of crossing very interesting. The opportunity to get to the most remote places in winter and freeride there is just great! We were able to ski down slopes as steep as 40°, which is always a huge effort with pulkas and hardly possible without a pulley. Learning for next time: We need a lightweight pully alternative so that we can pull the backpacks behind us on the flat sections. My hips and shoulders really couldn't take the weight on my back for a longer distance.

PG: Then perhaps about the cultural or even political conditions of your company in Georgia. How would you describe the culture of the area? It seems like you were welcomed with open arms. I've only done a little research. Georgia seems politically divided between the government's links to Russia and the opposition and president who are in favour of joining the EU. Have you heard or felt anything about this?

Heli: You researched that correctly! Since Russia also occupies two Georgian territories and there have already been violent clashes between the two countries, the majority there don't take too kindly to Russia. The war in Ukraine doesn't make the Georgians feel any better in this respect, although this also means that both Ukrainian and Russian refugees are immigrating to Georgia. The former are very welcome, the latter not so much.
We as German tourists are always welcome, and the people in Georgia are extremely hospitable and you always get a very warm welcome. As I and a few others from the team are regularly in Georgia during the winter season, we already know the country quite well and have our contact points, which makes planning an expedition like this much easier.

PG: And finally, will you be visiting the Caucasus again and if so, when? Ialakha 2? Or what are your projects for the winter in the Alps? Or are you going to fly to the real Alaska soon?

Sammy: The ideas are definitely there! However, nothing is concretely planned yet, we are still looking for support for the next project. An IALAKHA 2 would definitely be conceivable. In the end, we actually had to leave 95% of the lines behind. That literally calls for another attempt. At the same time, the idea of adapting this style to other terrain appeals to me. Alaska has already been discussed. Until then, we'll be travelling as much as possible in the Alps and setting up camp in the snow for a few days over New Year's Eve.

PG: Thank you for your time and we wish you all the best for your upcoming shoots and adventures!

The galleries with analogue photos by Eva Stribrna and then Sammy follow.

Ialakha!

Photo gallery

Photo gallery

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