However, the snow and avalanche situation in February 2014 was anything but pleasant for the local population. The ZAMG's February report with the words "[t]he south was extremely precipitous" only approximates the sometimes delicate situation. February was characterised by headlines such as: "The snow-related restrictions in Carinthia and East Tyrol continue (...)" and then "[o]nly ten days later, heavy snowfall occurs again in parts of Carinthia and Styria". The emergency services had their hands full. The amount of precipitation in the area around Nassfeld exceeded the normal value for February by around 300%. So at the end of February, after the situation had calmed down a little, we set off in the direction of Nassfeld to explore its freeriding possibilities. And because Mother Hulda was particularly kind to us, there was another half metre of powder on top 48 hours before our arrival - snow depths of around 4 m awaited us at Nassfeld!
The Nassfeld ski resort is located in the Carnic Alps in Carinthia. The Nassfeldsattel connects the Austrian Gail Valley with the Italian Kanaltal Valley. The resort lies between approx. 600 metres above sea level (Tröplach) and approx. 2,000 metres above sea level. With ascents to the surrounding mountains such as the Gartnerkofel (2,195 m), the Rosskofel (2,239 m) and the Trogkofel (2,280 m), you can go a little higher still.
Day 1: Explore the ski resort with a flying visit to the Kammleitn
On the morning of the first day, we met up with the freeride protagonist from Nassfeld, Alexander Huber, who is now back in full swing after an injury break of almost three years. As a local, he knows every single square metre of the backcountry there personally. We set off in the direction of the Sonnleitn lift and shortly before that directly into the forest. There, Alex led us through a fairytale rock labyrinth until a clearing finally opened up below a large rock tower and the first turns on a small, fine slope decorated with pillows awaited us. We continued through a sparse forest and reached the Trogkofel cable car again via a stream. Despite the massive snow cover of almost 4 metres, the streams were mostly open due to the mild temperatures and the repeated rain, and Alex's knowledge of the area and terrain was much in demand.
The next run started directly opposite the mountain station of the Trogkofelbahn. This is where the entrance to the popular Trogtal valley is located. However, we left it to the left. After a short triple unit, the Trogkessel opened up to us. It looks like a colourful bouquet of flowers, with some nice cliffs on skier's left and great open flanks on the right, which can only be reached by a short hike. In between, the descent leads through hilly terrain before the basin leads into the forest.
As a treat at the end of the day, we climbed up from Kühweggertörl to the Kammleitn summit. Here we took the very steep western flank, flanked by two rocks, and turned right into a flat section. From here, the long west-facing slope - which is clearly visible from the ski resort - begins with a descent of around 500 metres. It was already late afternoon. The sun had done the rest to the slope. After the first few turns, we realised that the situation was critical. As tempting as the gullies in the centre of the slope seemed, we skied down skier's right at the edge of the forest, as the terrain is less steep here. Once safely at the foot of the slope, we skied down through the forest to the pass road and along it on foot back to the lift. We savoured the day right up to the last lift and almost didn't make it back to our holiday home on the public buses. It is therefore essential to check the bus timetables in advance, as there are only a few connections to Hermagor and beyond once the lifts have closed.
Day 2: Tree skiing at Nassfeld in heavy snowfall
The next morning, we were greeted by heavy snowfall at the summit station of the Millenium cable car. So that we didn't freeze while waiting for Alex, who arrived a little late after a wild party the night before, we made a few tracks in the forest, which we hardly left for the rest of the day due to lack of visibility. When Alex arrived, we first took the Zweikofel cable car. We skied briefly on the piste, only to leave it again in the first bend directly towards the forest. This is where the 'black' variation descent runs. Here you can ski practically everything to the left and right of the route. This was also Alex's message, who, hung with GoPros like a Christmas tree, set off straight away and disappeared in a cloud of white dust. A fine tree run awaited us, peppered with small pillows and steps. It makes a freerider's heart smile. Further descents followed, left and right and under the Zweikofel cable car. The conditions near the forest were perfect today. Weather like this has the nice side effect that we were practically on our own. We were able to lay ridge tracks again and again, but also because our old tracks were snowed over again in the course of the day. We spent the rest of the afternoon in the Trogtal valley. Here, where in average winters the terrain is characterised by a labyrinth of massive boulders, we were now impressed by massive pillows. The valley offers varied terrain, moderately steep and partly wooded, making it easy to orientate yourself even in snowfall. However, due to its good visibility from the lift, it is very busy in good weather.
Day 3: Blue Bird, powder and sub-zero temperatures!
A winter landscape straight out of a tourist brochure! We waste no time and head for the Kammleitn. From the mountain station, we cross far over above the FIS downhill run into the opposite slope, the southern flank of the Kammleitn. Once there, we find ourselves on an extensive slope that is very lightly wooded. Due to the south-westerly exposure, however, the pleasure is limited to the morning hours, so we lapped it a few times. At lunchtime, we headed up to Monte Auernig opposite. From the mountain station of the Gartnerkofellift, you cross the slope to the left of the piste as far as your skis will carry you, after which you start skinning up. From here you climb up to the ridge and follow it westwards to the top. We skied a little to the right, as the slope to the left seemed too steep due to the prevailing avalanche situation. It was really dusty! Once we reached the edge of the forest, we turned left and plunged down a steep forest descent. The route back to the ski resort takes us along a pull trail at the foot of the mountain. We definitely didn't want to miss out on a second round!
Day 4: Freeride tour via the Gartnerkofelscharte to Postran
On our last day, we climbed from the mountain station of the FIS lift to the Gartnerkofelscharte, which takes about half an hour. Once again, we were the first and were impressed by the bizarre snowy landscape that awaited us in the large Gamskar. Enchanted by the fat powder turns, we skied down below the three Gartnerkofel towers. To the left of the Felshorn, you reach a wide, very steep gully: the small Gamskar. The houses of the Kühweger Alm can already be seen from here. But first we made our lines in the deepest powder for another 450 metres in altitude. We took a break at the alpine pasture and enjoyed the panorama and pure sunshine before descending through the forest and along farm tracks into the valley. We skated across the valley to Postran and took the bus back to the ski resort.
Conclusion
Nassfeld was a complete success. We were able to spend four unforgettable days, which afterwards felt like a winter fairytale. The freeride terrain near the lift is extensive and offers some longer runs (approx. 600 metres in altitude), especially in the area around Trogtal. Most of the runs are short (approx. 300 metres in altitude) but challenging. Furthermore, very interesting descents in the area such as Kammleitn, Monte Auernig and Schnittlauchkofel can be reached with short ascents. The trend of skiing "off-piste" has also arrived here, as you are by no means alone after fresh snowfall.
Interesting facts and links
Map material
Carnic Alps: Hiking map Tabacco 09. 1:25000
Online map with slope gradients: alpenvereinaktiv.com
The most beautiful freerides in the Austrian Alps
Apps
snowsafe (avalanche situation report)
alpenvereinaktiv.com
Ski area / accommodation
www.nassfeld.at
Costs
Day ski pass 40 EUR (high season) as at: February 2014
