TouringTip | Ortler Alps crossing

Note: The PG touring tips are general descriptions of tours that we like very subjectively. Our touring tips do NOT refer to CURRENT CONDITIONS. Read the situation report and the weather forecast and plan your tour accordingly.

During the First World War, the peaks of the Ortler Alps became a theater of war. Some remains of military positions, such as on the summit ridge of Monte Cevedale, bear witness to this. What a joy, even for ski mountaineers, that Europe has grown together like this a hundred years later.

General information about the Ortler Alps crossing

Map material: Tabacco Map 08, Ortles/Ortler area, Cevedale 1:25 000

Equipment: Multi-day high-altitude ski tour, therefore complete glacier equipment with rope, ice screws, crampons and ice axe as well as equipment for overnight stays in the huts

How to get there: By public transport: The Vinschgau train runs every hour between Malles/Mals and Merano/Meran. The nearest stop to the starting point of the crossing is Goldrain in the Vinschgau Valley. Unfortunately, the bus from there to Hintermartell (23 km) only runs from mid-June. However, with a little flexibility, you are sure to find someone to take you there. An alternative would be by cab. The cab company Fleischmann Raimund (+39 473 742 537) is based in Goldrain. Not having a car in Hintermartell allows for other attractive crossing options.

By car: Coming from the north, either via the Reschen Pass or the Brenner Pass. In Goldrain in the Vinschgau Valley, head south into the Martelltal Valley.

Access to the Marteller Hütte from the Hintermartell parking lot

The access to the Marteller Hütte (2610m) follows the summer trail. From the parking lot in Hintermartell (2070m), head southwest through the forest. Shortly after reaching the edge of the forest, you pass the Zufallhütte. Leave this on your right and cross the valley bed, which opens up to the south. After a short steep section, you reach the Marteller Hütte, which stands on a slight hill.

The Marteller Hütte is an ideal starting point for various three-thousand-metre peaks in the surrounding area. On the terrace, you can enjoy delicious coffee and cake in the afternoon sun with a view of the Königsspitze. When we were there, the hut was fully booked. In my opinion, the food - apart from coffee and cake - offers potential for optimization in terms of quality and quantity.

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Altitude meters uphill | downhill: 500 hm Slope: up to 35 ° Duration: 1h 30 min

Over the Palon de la Mare to the Rifugio Branca

From the Rifugio Larcher, ascent the eastern slope to the Col de la Mare. At the bottom, stay to the right of the rocks that separate the two tongues of the de la Mare glacier. Then follow the gentle slope up to about 3200 m towards Monte Rosole, where you turn southwest towards the Col de la Mare. To the east of the ridge from Col de la Mare to Monte Rosole, you first reach a pre-summit, from where you follow a ridge southwards to the summit of Palon de la Mare (3703 m).

The descent is directly from the summit across the glacier basin to the west. At an altitude of around 3,550 m, follow the basin northwards and then slowly turn south-southwest again. You finally end up on a moraine ridge and cross below the rocks but above the valley floor heading north-northwest to the Rifugio Branca (2493 m).

The charming hut is a popular base for numerous ski tour summits and can be reached quickly from Santa Caterina Valfurva to the south-east of Bormio. I think it's worth mentioning that I got my fill at the Rifugio Branca.

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Altitude metres uphill | downhill: 1175 hm | 1300 hm Incline: up to 35 ° Duration: 5 h Length: 10 km

Punta San Matteo and then to the Rifugio Pizzini Frattola

The high tour to Punta San Matteo harbors a certain potential for danger. There are several steep steps to negotiate, as well as the risk of ice breaking through beautiful seracs and, of course, the danger of falling through crevasses. You should walk across the glacier roped in. The upper section can be very hard, which is why crampons and ice axes are essential.

From the Branca hut, you first head towards the Forno basin. The terrain ascends very gently. The actual ascent across the glacier is best started on the left edge below the seracs. Although there is a risk of ice breakage there, there are crevasses further to the right. From an altitude of approx. 2900 m, cross to the right over the rock ribs. Above the rock ribs, follow the north-east ridge of Punta San Matteo (3678m).

Descent as ascent or traverse below the rock ribs and above L`Isola Persa to the north-west and descend via the skier's left glacier tongue.

The higher you traverse to Valle de Cedec, the more vertical meters you save on the ascent to Rifugio Pizzini Frattola. However, the avalanche situation must be taken into account during the crossing; on warm afternoons in spring, there is a risk of wet snow avalanches on the southern slope. From the valley entrance, follow the supply route to the Rifugio Pizzini Frattola.

The Rifugio Pizzini Frattola is excellent - even if the hut lacks charm, especially in contrast to the Branca hut.

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Metres in altitude uphill | downhill: 1900 m | 1500 m Incline: up to 35° Duration: 8:30 h Length: 17 km

The descent is the same as the ascent to the ski depot. From there, ski back down through the gully and keep left on the glacier above the two rock islands. Traverse in a south-easterly direction to below the Langenferner-Joch. After skinning up, you have to climb around 250 m from there to the pass and reach the Refugio Casati shortly after. There is even a portafilter coffee machine at 3269 m.

For the descent from Refugio Casati, follow the glacier to the left to avoid the steep steps. Descent along the left-hand glacier tongue until you reach the ascent track of the approach to the Martello hut as the valley floor flattens out. From there, you return to the car through familiar terrain.

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Altitude difference uphill | downhill: 1350 hm | 2000 hm Gradient: up to 45 °
Duration: 8 h Length: 15 km