Cloudless sky, 35°... as I change my tire, I wonder if I'll find one of the wonderful trails I've heard so much about. Suddenly, two tanned bikers from southern Europe ride up to me and ask if they can show me one of their beautiful home trails with a sea view. Yes, they can.
Among the rich and (?) beautiful
Just before Monaco in the small French town of Menton, we switch from road to rail to avoid the parking chaos in Monaco. As soon as you get off the train at the station or at the latest in the marble-clad passageway to the city center, you notice that money is handled a little differently here. The necessary small change is also urgently needed if you want to eat at the Hotel de Paris, for example. Starter at 460, main course at 850. If you don't have your platinum credit card to hand, you can treat yourself to a tasty French baguette with fine soft cheese from the region for 3.90 instead. Not particularly sophisticated, but delicious.
After enjoying an exquisite meal, you should visit the world-famous marina below the casino. In addition to medium-sized boats, there are all kinds of yachts. Normal-sized yachts worth the size of a detached house are moored next to somewhat larger yachts. Some that are just big, some that are twice as big, some that are bigger with a dinghy and some that are even bigger with two dinghies. Whether the next category in AIDA dimensions with a heli and several dinghies still counts as a yacht or already as a cruise ship is debatable. Best of all, of course, with a glass of water right next to the casino in the Cafe de Paris for just 30 euros.
Biker and gourmet's dream
Then it's better to climb into the smelly protectors and let the pig fly. Back in Finale, we set off from the Finale Freeride Base shortly after 9am. The bikes are quickly loaded onto the trailer. Around 25 minutes later, chauffeur and owner Silvia drops the impatient bikers off at Passo Mendolo in the Ligurian hinterland.
Unfortunately, the weather gods were not particularly kind to us that day. Thick fog brought back memories of chilly autumn in Germany. However, the challenging trails that followed quickly dispelled any disappointment about the poor view. It's much more pleasant to chase down trail after trail at a pleasantly cool 20° than to feel like a marinated grilled chicken in unpleasant-smelling protectors at 40°.
Enrico, the guide, always leads the group unerringly through the Ligurian hinterland. All trails in the morning have an altitude difference of around 300-400 meters and always run through mixed Mediterranean forest. The trails are usually no wider than handlebar width and cannot be technically compared with German low mountain trails. To get that surfing feeling, you should therefore have a certain basic technique and experience. The alternating slate and limestone cliffs with their steep bends and flowing passages on fast forest soil provide an ideal playground for the small group. The first few hours fly by. Enrico only allows his puffing sheep a short break each time. A short wait for the tail light at each crossroads, and on they go.
Although the area covered is not particularly extensive, it is easy to lose your bearings in the woods. The countless crossroads of the 15 routes marked on the overview map all look the same to germans. Most of the time, it is not the marked routes that are ridden, but small variants. The two Munich riders Thilo and Judith, who were here for the fourth time, confirm this. This is their fifth time here and they keep coming back. They are constantly being shown new trails and have rarely ridden a trail more than once.
Lunch break is taken at the Passo Mendolo in a rustic inn with homemade tagliatelle and polenta. Very tasty. The farmer's stall next door with fresh cheese, sausage and other local produce is so tempting that you'll find yourself wanting to break off the day right away and indulge in the culinary delights.
Nato vs. Russia
However, the next few hours were to show that staying strong was the right decision. Even without the extra pounds, the suspension is pushed hard. The trails in the afternoon all start from an abandoned NATO base or its helicopter landing pad. The fog and the eerie whirring wind turbines just a few meters away give the place a very special flair. You can still really feel the Cold War. Ilya, a fellow passenger from Russia, jokes at this sight: "You Europeans wouldn't have thought in the 70-80s that one day there would be a Russian here?" Enrico and Jean Michelle, another guide who has joined us, naturally don't let this sit on their heads and show with two beautiful manuals who is in charge here in Liguria. Balance of power restored, let's continue.
The mixed forests at this altitude of around 1000 meters remind me strongly of the trails in my home region of the Odenwald and Palatinate Forest. With the slight difference that you don't have to worry about being shot by the forester if you speed down the trails at full throttle. Except on Wednesdays and Sundays. Then it's hunting day.
The day gradually comes to an end around 5 p.m.: The last run Madonna della Guardia offers everything a freerider's heart desires at an altitude of 700 meters. Steep turns en masse, speed sections with small jumps and technical steep sections alternated. From Calice Ligure, the last few meters back to Finale are comfortably covered by shuttle. After such an amazing day, there was only one thing missing: a refreshing dip in the sea. But that didn't happen. The Ligurian plate devil had struck. Not uncommon on this material-intensive terrain. You should always have a spare tube and repair kit with you on the sharp limestone rocks.
Costal trails
The shuttle day in the hinterland did not take place on the coast due to high temperatures and low altitude. So I had to explore the area on my own: With the Finale Freeride map in hand, I head for the Le Manie area between Finale and Varigotti. During a short break to change an inner tube, two Italians approach me. They are dressed in their national costume (no upper body) and offer to guide me on their home trail. Blue skies, a hidden, flowing coastal trail - and off we go. The last rays of sunshine of the day are just sinking behind the coastal mountains as we reach the village, followed by a perfect espresso doppio at the beach café. Dolce vita like something out of a tearjerker novel. Thanks to Bruno and Giancarlo for this wonderful experience.
More pictures
Conclusion and travel tips
Finale will definitely see me again in the future. I will also definitely be using the bike shuttle again. However, it won't be during the main holiday season in midsummer. In spring and fall, the camping and biking life here is certainly more pleasant with pleasant temperatures and less tourism.
Bike tips
Info and maps of routes can be found on the homepage of Finale Freeride.
All routes are free to use. The shuttle service runs daily on request: price 35.- per day/person. In addition to Finale Freeride, there are other shuttle providers. I chose Finale Freeride because they are the ones who built all the trails, maintain them and add another one every year. Although Finale Freeride's base camp has everything a biker's heart desires, including a toilet, shower, bike wash, bike park with North Shore, cool drinks and camper van parking, it lacks the personal touch. Immediately after unloading, everyone leaves. Even the boss was gone again after an hour. You only feel like a paying customer here and don't share the experience with the group.
It is particularly advisable for anyone who has problems with topo maps to have the area shown to them for at least one day. It's very difficult to find your way around without any landmarks.
Travel tips
San Remo, Monaco, Nice, Cannes St. Tropez, via Via Aurelia approx. 3-4 hours, via highway approx. 1.5 hours (approx. 20.-)
Beautiful sandy beach between Alassio and Leigueglia.
Bussana Vecchia: Medieval town on a plateau. In Bussana, follow the signs.
On the route from D via CH or Ö: Milan, Turin, Lake Garda, Lake Maggiore.
Accommodation
Bike-friendly accommodation includes Hotel Florenz. An insider tip is the youth hostel, which offers a wonderful sunset in a newly restored castle slightly above Finale for around €15 per night.
Campers can stay at one of the many campsites in the hinterland. In Le Manie (about 5 km by car or a 30-minute walk to the sea) there are three pitches in cool coniferous forest right next to each other. You can also spend the night on the forecourt of Finale Freeride (1 km to the sea) for 15 euros, including sanitary facilities; you can stay for free without a fence and shower/WC on the parking lot or football pitch directly in front of it. Campsites by the sea are very rare; camping is prohibited almost everywhere and is also not advisable for safety reasons.
