An old love rekindled, Kyrgyzstan, a country of contrasts. While the north of the country is characterized by the urban influence of the capital Bishkek, which often manifests itself in rampant alcoholism and corruption, in the south we find what we had hoped for: Nature-loving semi-nomads who are full of joie de vivre and welcome us with warm-hearted hospitality.
For us, the foray into a new dimension of ski mountaineering
The mountaineering goal of our trip was to ski up the 7,134-metre-high Pik Lenin, the highest mountain in the Transalai range. The mountain is a rather easy seven-thousander in terms of mountaineering and the main difficulty is "limited" to the height. First of all, we didn't reach the summit and yet, for us, we still entered new dimensions. We used the short stopover in Istanbul to see, experience and buy everything we could or should. After an extended breakfast the next morning in one of the beautiful courtyards, we headed back to the airport and on to Osh in southern Kyrgyzstan. When we checked out in Osh, it was already clear how the security authorities (military and police) work here ... if it doesn't work, it's greased. Despite our fears, all our luggage had arrived and we were in the land of adventure and countless "Virgin Peaks". After the last organizational things, such as buying fuel for the stoves, dried fruit and nuts at the market, we were ready to go. The shuttle was waiting for us at four o'clock in the morning. The expected travel time from Osh to the 3,700 m high base camp (Achik-Tash) was given as 9 to 19(!) hours due to flooding. In the end, it wasn't all that adventurous and after five hours we were overwhelmed by the view from the highlands of a majestic mountain range and an impressive peak - Lenin Peak, our destination, which already seemed so close and yet was so far away.
What you need for an ascent of Lenin Peak
Our expedition company ITMC is highly recommended and the camp around Vladimir and the cook Svetlana was like home from home. We booked through ITMC for the base and advanced base camp and were very well looked after. We also had porters with horses from the base camp to the advanced base camp. We covered the ascent, all other stations and transportation ourselves. This required thorough organization in advance: because what you don't have with you, you don't have: In addition to the personal utensils, ski monkey, pikel, rope, glacier harness and pharmacy, here is a small insight into the material requirements for four people:
2 liters of fuel
3 kg of gas
10 kg of dry food
1 kg of oatmeal
40 bagged soups and boullion
3 kg of nuts and dried fruit
100 power bars
120 tea bags
...and sausage as a treat from home, electrolytes, toilet paper, milk powder, coffee, etc. on the side.
We spent the first few days in camp enjoying easy walks up to a maximum of 4,000 meters. The variety of colors is overwhelming and we were accordingly flashed: green, red, brown and the white glacier world. In addition to the acclimatization tours, we bathed, snacked, chilled, enjoyed, ate and slept extensively.
Advanced Basecamp - 4200 m
Then it was the day of the onward journey: the local nomadic family took over the transportation of our 80 kilograms of luggage, which were carefully weighed and calculated. We quickly struck up a warm friendship with the family carrying our luggage, we provided them with the best possible equipment and they invited us to dinner. After the last fat balls and rice pudding from Svetlana, we set off for the onion meadow, past the memorial rock and signs for the many who never returned. Then over the Travelers Pass and finally to the 4,200-metre-high Advanced Base Camp. Finding the right camp was admittedly not that easy, as numerous other expeditions had already set up their campsites. We were again warmly welcomed and Pappa (the cook) provided us with a delicious snack and power tea (Pappa special blend). We became so friendly that he became the proud owner of all my ski touring equipment when we left. Apart from drinking a lot, setting up camp, resting, drinking again and eating, not much happened at first. We were overwhelmed by the increasingly imposing glacier formations in front of us and the altitude also played its part. The following day, we undertook our first short ski tour: despite critical conditions, we found a beautiful and fairly safe line that led us straight back to camp. So the daily routine was mostly similar: a short ski tour early in the morning, roasting in the sun, organizing, a little personal hygiene (like the whole three weeks), playing cards, drinking and eating. The increasing altitude and remoteness did not make the food monotonous in any way, but the variety was kept within narrow limits: cabbage was always part of it. But even this experience was to be topped by the bagged food to come... The daily exchange with our colleagues and porters from the base camp also quickly became a fixed item on the program. They didn't speak any English and we didn't speak any Russian, let alone Kyrgyz. But we had time, sat together on the floor, drew, talked to each other in a secret language that was previously unknown to me and enjoyed our time together. The Nepalese who were staying at our camp as part of the exchange program contributed to the cheerful and relaxed atmosphere. Their songs in the morning, at lunchtime and in the evening enriched camp life. One of them has already been to Mount Everest twice and will probably be up there next time with one of our climbing harnesses and ski goggles, possibly drawing strength from our remaining bagged food.
High camp 1
We walked to the next camp (5,400 meters) twice, once to acclimatize and to bring our luggage up in stages. However, getting up "late" at 3.30 a.m. turned out to be a serious mistake. The so-called "pan" in the last part of the route robbed us of the last of our strength in the heat. In the future, we were to observe other runners suffering from exhaustion and in some situations even had to rush to their aid. We had learned and were on the road earlier the second time. I had contracted sunstroke; coupled with my luggage, which was clearly too heavy, these were not good conditions for the rest of the ascent. Unfortunately, I wasn't able to recover from this weakness for the rest of the time and also due to the increasing altitude. When we arrived at the camp, we just managed to shovel a plateau with our last ounce of strength, pitch the tent, melt the snow and have a snack. The procedure worked well: two set up the camp on arrival and two melt water and prepare the food. Over the next few days, we should produce around 200 liters of water from the snow using our expedition stoves. The amount alone gives you an idea of how much time is spent melting snow, sometimes in the most adverse conditions. The descent the next day was magnificent from top to bottom. How glad we were to have our skis now, even if my boot was only able to ski in walking mode. Although rewarding, this tour had taken its toll on us all and the last hour, in which we had to carry the skis back to the camp, demanded our last reserves. But we were able to spend the rest of the day drinking, eating, sleeping, playing puzzles or just being - that was all we could do. It usually started to snow around lunchtime and the afternoon nap was the order of the day, as was the coffee and treats afterwards. The last tour had shown us how important weight reduction is. We sorted out our clothes and picked up every item again and thought about it. The following day was of the relaxed variety: we only went on a short tour to move our legs a little.
Ascent to High Camp 2
We were very early in the climbing season, but the nervousness and tension was starting to show in the other camps too. My thoughts were focused on the day ahead: was it going to be another tough climb to exhaustion? This stage is, if you can even call it that, the most technically difficult and exposed. Here you can observe and see what people think they can buy with money. We were only worried about the risk of avalanches, especially as avalanches were once again falling right above the exposed ascent track that evening. Listening to others and getting advice is difficult here, as the know-how is often not very serious and is limited to the dreaded "it'll work". So it's a good idea to choose your own strategy. I assessed the situation as unfavorable. After my "hang" in a crevasse and two loud "whams" and cracks in the glacier field, I had massive doubts about the avalanche situation. A joint objective assessment of the situation finally allowed us to continue on our way. We overcame the "critical zone" as quickly as possible and soon found ourselves back in the pan. This time it wasn't a walk in the park either, but it was much better. The next day, my headache from the previous evening was gone and I felt great, even better when James sweetened our start to the day with "the Coffeemen". We climbed up to around 5,800 meters in a bitterly cold wind and enjoyed another beautiful descent to our camp. Who you don't meet up there, by the way; in our case the so-called "High Mountain Opis". An illustrious group of old men who had a lot of fun seeing how far we could go, very friendly. We lent them our emergency stove as theirs had given up the ghost. The next day, we saddled up like horses and fought our way up to high camp 2 with heavy packs. We felt good and so, after the first stage finish at 5,800 meters, we even managed to go one step further up to 6,100 in order to transport material for the third camp to the top. The night was extremely stormy and snowy, so we were glad when we were able to leave the rather exposed camp. That night, unfortunately, there was the first death of the season in the camp above us. He had frozen to death in the tent, or died of heart failure, he was found frozen stiff in the tent - we were drastically warned by the death.
Camp three - the decision
The ascent to camp three proved to be very arduous due to all the fresh snow, especially as it was not possible to ascend on skis due to the steepness. Instead, the skis hung on the backpack as an extra weight. It was up to us to make the tracks and it was hours before we made it to the top and the extreme effort was not exactly conducive to my fragile state of health. Absolutely exhausted, with signs of altitude sickness, I spent a terrible night at 6,100 meters in a storm, freezing temperatures and having to shovel my tent free several times. I felt more in a trance than lucid and could hardly eat, let alone sleep, but rather vegetate. It was clear to me that whatever the others wanted to do, I absolutely had to get down. The next day was clear, stormy and bitterly cold. As it no longer made sense for the others to attempt the ascent due to the unfavorable weather, all the fresh snow and the exposed final ridge, we decided to turn back. Nevertheless, we dragged ourselves up to a nearby summit at around 6,200 meters and "watered" our summit happiness there with a schnapps from home. However, this happiness didn't last long and some of our feet had to be massaged as they were in danger of freezing. We set off downhill as quickly as possible and it really was a gift. We had great fresh snow and were able to go powdering at over 6,000 meters and enjoy the view. Powdering at over 6,000 meters, with expedition luggage, almost makes your lungs collapse, but it's still an awesome experience and my condition improved immediately...
Missed the summit and still did everything right
Fortunately, we made the right decision when we arrived at camp one and didn't continue towards Advanced Basecamp, as we wouldn't have made the pan and the long walk to camp. The beer and Pappa's freshly cooked food would have to wait. We "enjoyed" one last bagged meal together. At the beginning we each ate one bag, but by the end it was one for four, we were ready for a change. As it snowed a little again during the night, we had a little fluff the next day and perfect conditions on our way back to the "civilization" of the Advanced Basecamp. Although it was the beginning of the climbing season, the first high camp already resembled a small garbage dump. As we didn't have much with us anyway, there was room for gas cans, empty food bags, plastic bottles and other junk. We were delighted to arrive unscathed: Dad gave his all in the kitchen and we gave our all emptying the pots.
The girls "profitably" sold their touring ski boots (two cans of beer per boot) and so the evening was saved. The final evening gifted us with a beautiful sunset and an impressive canopy of sky. So beautiful the evening, so beautiful the morning, bright sunshine, Pappa set the table outside and there were small sausages with omelettes: a feast for the palate. Then the porters arrived with their horses and it was time to set off.
A fond farewell to the wonderful people up there was imminent. The porters "sprinted" ahead on their horses to announce our return to base camp. Just as we were seen off, we were welcomed back and had a huge, good lunch. We actually had an impromptu shower before dinner, a great feeling in such "fresh" clothes. Word of our ski trip had spread and so, after dinner, a very nice Kyrgyz man came to our table with his colleague to ask us a few questions, if that would be okay: he also had schnapps with him... It turned out that he was the owner of our expedition company and president of the Kyrgyz "mountain guide association". He wanted to set off with his colleague in the next few days to climb the mountain on skis. He had lots of questions ... We then knew the following Kyrgyz wisdom, unfortunately I can't get them all together: Always eleven after the last (snap)
When you pick up the walking stick
Because you are still sitting on the bench
When you get up
At the door frame
At the fence door
When you call the horse
When the horse comes
In the stirrup
Something with the horse's head....
....??...memory lapse
Over/behind the mountain
As expected, we took the next day easy, tried to organize the next few days and rest our tired limbs. Vladimir (the president) tried everything he could to realize our wish for three days of horse trekking and of course he succeeded... After the farewell tour was done, including a good portion of snuff for our porter colleague, as well as giving away all the material, we were ready for new adventures and the last evening and sunset in the base camp. This was overshadowed by the news that a friendly snowboarder, with whom we often shared the route, had suffered a fatal fall on the descent. As it turned out, there would be no weather for an ascent for several more days and only two people had reached the summit before us this season.
The adventure after the adventure
Now we were really looking forward to getting to know the life of the Seminomads in addition to all the camps and climbing stories. I'm not talking about a hackneyed tourist tour here, because fortunately that doesn't exist yet. As nice as horse trekking sounds, if you've never sat on a horse like this before (like me, for example), five hours in the saddle can be quite long and painful and that was only the first day... We spent the first night in a yurt, the second in our tents. Our destination was a remote valley that can only be reached on horseback or on foot. The people live off cheese production and their livestock, which they sell at weekly markets from time to time. As our actual hostel was occupied on our return, Ali (the guide) simply took us home with him. We were looked after like princes by his mother, they gave us all so much and yet actually had so little - we were deeply touched and impressed. To make the most of the hours until our departure for Osh, we went for a short walk, which wasn't quite so short after all, but it was beautiful and a worthy farewell to the Transalai Range. Of course, our departure was delayed because the first cab (there aren't that many there) was an old Audi 80 for four people with luggage and skis. Once we arrived in Osh, we explored everything the city had to offer, haggled at the market, munched on fat balls and were ready for the best shashlik skewers ever, loads of salads, chips and other delicacies.
The mafioso taxi driver to the airport wanted to rip us off at the end, but not with us: because we had been washed with and through time in the other dimension. When the plane took off and we saw the white peaks again from afar, I felt calm. I could not yet fully comprehend and process what I had experienced, but I knew that this time, these experiences on the mountain with the people on site and us as a crew were something very special. On behalf of the whole team, I would like to thank our supporters and partners such as Evoc, Bergzeit and of course Totti from PowderGuide. With your support, you have made a significant contribution to the success of the project.
Thank you...
A very special thank you goes to the ascent team, Karo, Jenny and James. An idea among friends became a vision, and the vision became reality. We defied adverse conditions, overcame both difficult and happy times and experienced a lot. I would like to thank you for the organization, for the support when I wasn't feeling so well up there, for the coffee in the tent, for a great time and for the many wonderful moments we shared. I will never forget all that and much more, thank you very much.
