TripReport Cordillera Blanca | 6,000 meter peaks in Peru by snowboard - Part 1

Ski tours in Peru?

The Alps actually offer everything: good snow, comfortable accommodation and huts, easy accessibility, a high density of information (measuring stations, avalanche reports, etc.) and much more. None of this can be found in Peru - and that's exactly what makes it so attractive! We don't want to go in search of the longest powder runs with the shortest ascent, but rather experience a little adventure where the focus is on the overall experience! The idea for this was born in 2023 during a trekking and mountaineering tour through the Cordillera Blanca. The imposing ice walls, the less frequented peaks, the simple logistics on site (there is no permit or guide requirement and the organization of donkeys for luggage transport is inexpensive and uncomplicated) and the stable weather in the dry season made me want to come back again with my snowboard.

Time period and planning

Due to its geographical location in the tropics, there are only two seasons in the Cordillera Blanca, not four: The dry season lasts from around mid-May to September and the rainy season from October to April. Around 90 % of the annual rainfall occurs during this period. The dry season is definitely recommended for activities in the mountains. The optimum period for ski tours is somewhat shorter, as after too long a period without snowfall, penitential snow or ice forms in almost all exposures (except on the south side), which no longer offers any downhill enjoyment. The beginning of the dry season is therefore best suited for ski tours (approx. mid-May to early July).

Our team

consists of Paul, Dominik and me, Malte. One skier and two splitboarders. As downhill-oriented alpine skiers living in and around Innsbruck, we love challenging tours and are used to covering longer distances with our skis on our backs in spring.

Experience report

Journey & acclimatization

After a 36-hour odyssey from Innsbruck, we arrived in Huaraz at 3,050 metres. The journey is exhausting, but everything goes smoothly: by plane from Munich via Madrid to Lima, once across the city and then by bus into the Andes. Our 31-kilogram ski bag is accepted at the counter in Munich with a smile and at no extra cost. Our driver masters the last cab ride to the hostel in Huaraz with the ski bag simply unsecured on the roof of the car - welcome to Peru! We start our acclimatization right away with pollo and Inca Kola, the national drink.

Thanks to the dry weather, we immediately start our acclimatization tours the following day: first to Laguna Wilcacocha (3,680 m) with great views of the Cordillera Blanca, then to Laguna Churup (4,550 m). As we were feeling very well and our pulse oximeter readings were in the green zone, we tightened up our plan and organized transport and donkeys for the first ski trip on the third day.

It is located at 4,300 m and offers a number of tour options in the surrounding area, which is why it is also ideal for acclimatizing. Even though we have tolerated the altitude very well so far and regularly measure our oxygen levels with our pulse oximeter, we don't want to overdo it. Altitude sickness should be taken very seriously and, to be honest, our acclimatization plan goes beyond any doctrine. After the first night at 4,300 m, we are still feeling good and therefore undertake our first tour with light packs to a pass at just over 5,000 m. The west face of Tocllaraju offers a breathtaking view and the proximity to the snow awakens anticipation for the day ahead!

First day of skiing - Ishinca (5,530m)

The fifth day of our trip is the first day of snowboarding. We set off early at 4am in the direction of Ishinca. The ascent to the glacier takes forever, the nights in the Cordillera Blanca are long and cold and moraine debris is not a pleasant terrain to approach. We are therefore delighted when we arrive at the glacier and the first rays of sunshine warm us up. There had been some fresh snow a few days earlier, so it was at least possible to ski down to the edge of the glacier. However, as the general snow conditions are very poor, we ascend using a rope. Over wide glacier slopes, criss-crossed by huge crevasses, we get closer to the summit. We trudge the last 100 vertical meters on foot, the last 10 vertical meters are steep and over a small cornice to the summit of the 5,530-metre-high Ishinca.

The following day was actually supposed to be a rest day. However, as our fitness level proved satisfactory in the morning, we packed up all our gear and headed for a higher camp for the Tocllaraju. Unfortunately, the Moranencamp at 5,100 m can no longer be reached with donkey support. So we walk uphill for 3.5 hours with a heavy load on our shoulders. If you're wondering how heavy the backpack is, it's probably 25 to 30 kg per person (my board with bindings and boots already weighs 8 kg). We are a little envious of some of the ski crews in the movies who have porters carry all their stuff up to the moraine camp and walk up comfortably with a backpack weighing 2-3 kg. In hindsight, however, we are of course all the prouder to have done the tour "by fair means". The moraine camp is located on a small hilltop directly below the edge of the glacier's side arm. The main arm runs below it and provides an impressive backdrop. We watch the sunset, but then it's time to get into the cozy warm sleeping bag.

Turning back under the summit mushroom of Tocllaraju (6,034m)

After a short and restless sleep, breakfast is choked down more badly than well at 2am. With slow but steady steps, we walk monotonously for several hours in the pitch dark towards Tocllaraju. At sunrise, we reach the first steep serac climbs, where we have to switch to crampons. We overcome this steep step in two pitches, with the ice tools barely finding a foothold in the 70 degree temperatures and gritty snow. This reminds us why we took more snow anchors with us than ice screws (the latter are largely unusable depending on the terrain!). The mountain air and the past few days become more and more noticeable in the upper section, so we slow down more and more. We don't have any time pressure, but the hard snow gets better with time and the powder snow remains powdery. Nevertheless, we decide to turn around at 5,957 m and forgo the summit. The once mighty summit mushroom of Tocllaraju had broken apart a few weeks earlier. In addition to terrifying chunks of ice, it has exposed a large rock face that is difficult to secure on the ascent and would be equally unsuitable for descending. For risk-benefit reasons, we therefore forgo the last 77 m to the summit and swap our crampons for snowboards and skis. The snow is a mixture of hard snow, firn and some powder. Compared to the descent on foot, the descent is a dream. Even though some ski films talk about how hard skiing is at 6,000 m, the ascent is the hard part! As soon as you have strapped the snowboard to your feet, the hardest part is already behind you and the descent usually takes care of itself. To be on the safe side, we abseil down the steep section using two snow anchors. After a slalom through the chunks of ice and a traverse below mighty crevasses, we enjoy the last turns in the powder snow before the last 150 m have to be covered on bare ice. But true to the motto "It's better to ski badly than well", we ski down to the last centimeter of the glacier. And on the best bare ice firn! At lunchtime, the strong sunlight has ensured that the bare ice on the surface has thawed slightly. This makes it perfectly acceptable for skiing.

On the last day, with the support of Luciano and his donkeys, we return from the Ishinca Valley in comfort. On a positive note, the Peruvians are very punctual and friendly! Six days earlier, we had agreed with our "great" Spanish skills that we would like to be picked up again at 8 am. He is already at the campsite with his three donkeys an hour before the agreed time. With light luggage, much better acclimatized and going downhill, we can even keep up with Luciano. He is pleased that he can even speak a little Spanish with us "gringos". Finally, we exchange phone numbers - see you again!

In part 2, you can find out how we continue our adventure after a short rest in Huaraz!