On the South Island of New Zealand, in the middle of the Southern Lakes District, lies Queenstown. The backdrop of clear lakes in front of snow-covered mountains is breathtaking and the sports options are diverse. This is no longer an insider tip and Queenstown and the region are therefore very touristy. This has advantages and disadvantages. In any case, the mountains around Queenstown offer freeriders many options and with the Remarkables, one of New Zealand's best commercial ski resorts is practically on the doorstep.
Queenstown
Founded in 1861, Queenstown is located directly on the shores of Lake Wakatipu and, with around 10,000 inhabitants and as the capital of the Southern Lake District, is more than just a classic "skitown". However, tourism is clearly the main focus here: there are offers for all kinds of "fun sport" activities on every corner. Queenstown also boasts that it is the birthplace of bungy jumping. For many backpackers, their trip ends in Queenstown and one last "big adventure" such as a parachute or bungy jump is almost obligatory for many New Zealand travelers before boarding the plane home at the city's own airport. You can think what you like about modern "event and action" tourism and the comparison with Disneyland, which is often made when talking about Queenstown, is not completely out of the air. Despite all the disadvantages, a touristically developed town always has one advantage: there is always something to do! The bars, restaurants and leisure facilities are perhaps a welcome change for many after a long trip in the mountains or a good way to find some distraction while waiting for the next snowfall.
It's up to you to decide whether you want to try out the various sports on offer, but it's not cheap here (you can easily pay €200 for a parachute jump). But there are also cheaper alternatives. There is an 18-hole disc golf course on the peninsula directly in the town. This sport, which is very popular in New Zealand, involves throwing a Frisbee into the designated baskets with as few throws as possible. Discs can be rented or bought for around NZD 20. Use of the facility is free of charge and if you have a six-pack of beer with you, you might even find a group of locals who will come along and help you with tips and tricks.
Also completely free of charge is the very beautiful hike up Queenstown's local mountain "Ben Lomond" The hike up the 1748 meter high mountain is not difficult, but does take a few hours. The reward is a magnificent view over the surrounding lakes and mountains. Depending on the snow conditions, you can also tackle the hike as a ski tour, although the first few meters up from the town are almost always free of snow. Once you reach the summit, the face facing the lake is a very challenging descent that will earn you a few appreciative pats on the back in the town. On the way to Ben Lomond, you also pass the top station of the Skyline gondola lift. However, this is not designed for skiing. In winter, it is mainly used as a means of transportation to the viewing platform. There is also a kind of summer toboggan run at the mountain station, the Ludge, which you shouldn't immediately dismiss as tourist nonsense. With a few friends and a few runs, you can quickly get that mari kart feeling and have lots of fun. In summer, the gondola is also used by bikers who let off steam in the adjoining bike park. Queenstown is an international bike metropolis and you should also take the opportunity to explore some of the trails in winter. As the snow line is usually well above the city, the trails are usually easy to ride even in winter. The Wyneyard Freestyle Park is legendary and fans of single trails will get their money's worth on trails such as "Seven Mile" and "Golddigger". But the trails directly below the gondola are also highly recommended. Bikes are not transported in winter, but you can pedal up the forest path and use the trails that are not currently being maintained. Bikes can be hired from the many sports stores in the village. Information about the trails can be found at the friendly local mountain bike club qtmbc.
Of course, there are countless restaurants and bars in the city. Everyone should be able to find something here. It's worth comparing the prices of the bars, which vary greatly. "The find" stands out positively from the many typical bars, which are also familiar from European ski resorts. The decor is creative and somewhat hip, without giving you the feeling of being unwelcome as a non-ultra hipster. In the evening, the burgers are highly recommended and later you can drink cocktails from teapots and shake a leg to mostly good music away from the mainstream. Interestingly, the current number one attraction in Queenstown on Tripadvisor is also a pub. Fergburger is hard to miss due to the long queue in front of the restaurant. The burgers are great and also very popular with the locals. Even if the waiting time sometimes seems daunting, you shouldn't leave Queenstown without trying a Fergburger. If you prefer a more relaxed atmosphere and appreciate good Italian cuisine at a fair price/performance ratio, we can recommend Farellis and the Bolognese in particular.
The Remarkables
The ski resort "The Remarkables" is located around 20 km outside of Queenstown and is named after the Remarkables mountain range, which is clearly visible from the town. The area's four chairlifts (that's quite a lot for New Zealand!) open up good terrain for freeriding, which is why it can get quite crowded on a good day.
In addition to the freeride runs, the ski area also offers two(!) fun parks: a classic park with mostly two jump lines and a few obstacles and the Burton "The Stash" Park with natural obstacles mostly made of wood. The central building with cafe, ticket office etc. was renovated for the 2015 season. 2015 day tickets cost a whopping 104 NZD! Due to its proximity to touristy Queenstown, you will meet more classic ski tourists from Asia and Australia in the Remarkables than perhaps in the Clubfields. But many good locals also appreciate the in-bounds freeride runs. The runs are controlled and approved by the ski patrol. Most lines can be reached on foot via short ascents. The necessary bootpacks are also set up by the ski patrol. Queenstown local Pete Oswlad says of his home mountain: "Remarks is a little known freeride Mecca! While freeriders battle for fresh tracks at other NZ resorts with a freeride reputation, I smash fresh powder by myself for days after any storm with endless dreamy steep cliff laden runs with just short walks from lift access".
Perhaps the most famous variants can be found in the so-called "Alta Chutes". These are relatively steep chutes that lead to Lake Alta after a climb from the top station of the Shadow Basin Lift. The final runs of the NZ Open have often been held here. If you have the chance to be in the Remarkables at the time when the Freeride Open takes place, you shouldn't miss the contest (expected dates in 2015: September 1 to 6). Whether you're a rider or a spectator: the atmosphere is good, there will be barbecues and beer and some of the young Kiwis are sure to amaze you with crazy lines, often commented on by New Zealand freeskiing greats such as Sam Smoothy You can see for yourself in the video of the 2014 competition).
If the snow conditions are right, the Homeward Run is probably one of the most rewarding options in the region. Also from the Shadow Basin lift, a long traverse takes you to the entrance to a huge open area by New Zealand standards, which ends at the road to the ski area. You can then take the ski area shuttle bus or hitch a ride back to the lifts. If you like touring skiing, you can also use the Remarkables as a starting point for tours of varying degrees of difficulty. Immediately after the top station of the Sugar Bowl lift, you reach an area behind the actual ski area via the ridge where there are opportunities for various short tours. The tour to the striking summit of the Single Cone is a challenging alpine tour. The descent is also challenging and includes serious sections where a fall would have serious consequences.
Coronet Peak
A 20-minute drive from Queenstown is the ski resort "Coronet Peak" . With a difference in altitude of almost 500 meters and three chairlifts, Coronet is one of the larger ski resorts in New Zealand. Alpine ski teams from Europe can often be found training at the only T-bar lift in the ski area. All in all, however, Coronet is a family ski resort focused on alpine skiing, which is also relatively snow-sure thanks to the largest artificial snow system in New Zealand.
Even if the ski resort is not famous for this, there are still some rewarding freeride variants, which are also checked and approved by patrollers, as is customary in New Zealand. Coronet is known beyond the borders of Queenstown for its night skiing. This always takes place on Fridays and Saturdays between 16:00 and 21:00. However, these evenings can hardly be compared with European night skiing. The slopes may not be floodlit like a FIS night slalom, but the atmosphere is much cooler and the crowd is younger. Many Queenstown locals use the night ski to "warm up" for the party night in the city. Don't imagine crowds of people drinking mixed drinks with dubious names and bawling to bad pop techno. Like many things in NZ, the whole thing is a little more relaxed. The DJs play relaxed electronic music, there are drinks and food offers (in 2014 a pizza cost less than NZD 10 and a Corona was available for NZD 5) and skiing is still the main focus. People simply have a few drinks between runs to cool music. You could also enjoy this in Europe.
If you're lucky, you'll be in the Coronet area when one of the nightski specials takes place. On date night, for example, flirtatious singles are sent up the lift in pairs. This gives you the opportunity to arrange a date for later in the evening in the city and, on the subsequent descent, to find out whether the potential date also cuts a good figure on skis. In any case, it pays to be on the mountain at around 4 p.m., as the sunset from the mountain is definitely worth seeing and you can also get some great snapshots in good light at the bag jump (for a fee).
