While taking a long break in the lee, the sun's rays are already spring-like warm on our skin - after all, we are not far from the Aegean in south-eastern Europe. After the sweat-inducing ascent, past Muratov (2669 m) and over the small Hovinati summit, the foehn up here in the Vihren Scharte gives you a good airing. Is the weather about to turn bad?
We don't care at the moment, as we set off across the promising flank to the summit of the Vihren, armed with crampons. The snowboarder on snowshoes, whom we observe on the very steep ascent from Bankso, involuntarily slides back down into the valley on his textiles, although he would certainly have preferred the descent on his board...?
Firn runs and the European Cup
On the last few meters before the finish, blown-off rock forces us to carry our skis again - then the view finally sweeps north from the summit of Vihren to the Rila mountains and far below in the grey-brown foothills we see Bansko. The Todorka with its unbelievable gullies leading all the way to the bottom of the Banderitsa valley is opposite us. Maya would have time to show us the best runs tomorrow, but the weather will probably postpone the date for the lines we're already dreaming up there...
The terrain allows for speedy skiing in wide radii, the snow is terrific for the first 800 vertical meters. Only in the couloir before the Vihren hut does the warm foehn wind make the firn slushy. The drama gradually builds: The avalanches of heavy snow in the neighboring couloir are looming menacingly close, we're thirsty after a long day and the descent into the Bansko ski area drags on. A FIS race taking place here tomorrow prevents us from skiing the last few meters up to the ski station on the piste - everything is closed off and already perfectly prepared for the men's downhill race. We drink our after-work beer between ski tourists from England and the Balkans, postpone the descent to the day after tomorrow and have Vasko pick us up by bus right here at the valley station.
Rhodope villages - in Kovachevitsa
After returning from Vihren to Bansko, it had already started to rain slowly - an uncomfortably gray sky from which it rains up to 1800 m.
The thighs are also looking forward to a day of rest, so Vasko drives us to the Rhodopes the next morning. A good hour's drive south-east of Bansko in the western Rhodopes lies the village of Kovachevitsa (1020 m), which is an architectural legend. The style of the buildings is unparalleled in Bulgarian architecture. As we stroll through the narrow streets, we enjoy the mild Mediterranean climate and the anticipation of spring. Up here, mostly Orthodox Christians live around St. Nikola's Church, the next village down is dominated by Muslims and at the bottom of the Kanina River Valley (Bloody River), Roma children play soccer in the street. One thing becomes clear to us: Bulgaria has an incredibly long history with cultures that have come and gone; the population is therefore an interesting mix of many ethnicities and religious communities. Last but not least, according to Greek myths, the Rhodopes are the home of the legendary ancient singer Orpheus and his wife Eurydice. After so much culture, it's good to relax: we treat ourselves to a warm bath in the old Eastern Bloc spa at the head of the Kanina Valley in Okhianitsa.
Bright blue skies
and the cold night are perfect conditions for our last tour to Kutelo (2908 m), which promises one last racy descent with its eastern flank. From Bansko, the summit pyramid is clearly visible in the brilliant white. Maya (the freeride lady of Bansko) unpacks her fat, green "Bandit-Squad" skis at the valley station to accompany us on the tour. With so much girl power, nothing can go wrong and we leave the still quiet valley station of Bansko full of energy. The steep, pathless ascent through the high forest of the Banderitsa pastures, which becomes increasingly thinner as we track up the open slopes and ridges to Kutelo, is a sweat-inducing experience. The ladies push on quickly towards the summit. The strongest man in the group is plagued by cramps in his thigh, which in turn tempts the women's crew to lynch the athlete's battered body until he can walk again.
Wild ride to Bansko
Will it later be called "violence by women" or were the ladies of the team simply fitter? - the final photo of our Kutelo tour is only adorned with the athletic bodies and charming faces of Anita, Marina and Maya, while almost all of our male ski friends had to wait in the saddle before the summit or in the valley. Both sexes look forward to a combined 1300 meters of altitude with fast, long turns in the firn and the finale in a couloir through the forest. Maya politely offers us guests the right of way, only letting her freeriding experience come into its own towards the end of the wild ride - cruising confidently through the increasingly soft snow on her fat "Squad" boards, she jumps coolly over rock steps in the couloir. In spring temperatures on the sun terrace of the valley station, we toast our last brilliant descent with a cappuccino and beer - and beam with Ivo and Maya.
End of the road trip - Sofia
Early spring (Martenitsa) in Sofia and the day after tomorrow is a national holiday. With the red and white lucky ribbons on their arms, the Bulgarians wish each other a sunny, fulfilling spring. Before the short flight back to Munich and Zurich, there is still plenty of time for a stroll around the capital. The Alexander Nevski Cathedral, lots of fresh fruit at the Saturday market and young, cosmopolitan Bulgarians sitting in the street cafés. Things are happening in this young, old European country and I'm already looking forward to the next reunion in the snow with our friends from the Balkans.
