TouringTip | Zuckerhütl

Zuckerhütl in transition

The name "Zuckerhütl" probably goes back to the once consistently snow-white summit, which towered strikingly into the sky at the end of the Stubaital. Today, however, there is only limited evidence of this. At 3,507 meters, the Zuckerhütl is the highest peak in the Stubai Alps - even if this was not always so clear. For a long time, the significantly lower Habicht (3,277 meters) was thought to be the highest mountain in the group due to its exposed location. A misconception that persisted - and is still held by some today.

However, a lot has changed since the first ascent of the Zuckerhütl in 1863 by Josef Anton Specht with mountain guide Alois Tanzer. Where once a challenging undertaking with a long journey awaited, today an entire ski area opens up the mountain. The once arduous climb to the summit has almost become a half-day tour - at least logistically. Nevertheless, it remains alpine. The Zuckerhütl has also lost its shine visually: the once gleaming white "sugar" dress is melting away with the glaciers, revealing an increasingly stony summit structure.

What used to be solid ice is now brittle and unpleasant, especially in summer, when stones pelt down from above. Consequently, the mountain guides in the Stubai Valley have removed the classic summit from their alpine tour program since summer 2020. Instead, they guide their guests from the uppermost Sulzenauferner to the beautifully shaped Pfaffenschneide (3,498 m) - less crumbly, but hardly less impressive. As a consolation, it is often called the Zuckerhütl-Westgipfel.

However, if you want to climb the Zuckerhütl "by fair means", you have to gain significantly more vertical meters. From the Mutterberg via the ski area of the Stubai Glacier lifts, it is around 2,300 meters in altitude. The ascent from the Grawa Alm via the Sulzenauferner is hardly less demanding and involves around 2,000 vertical meters.

Approach

Most people opt for the comfortable ascent with the Stubai Glacier lifts. There are two common options for this. You can either take the Fernaulift. From there, if there is enough snow, you can cross the south-facing slopes, which saves a few meters in altitude and makes for a more relaxed start to the tour. Alternatively, you can take the Schaufeljochbahn lift up. You then ski down via the Gaiskarferner, past the T-bar lift of the same name, down into a hollow. This is where the actual ascent begins. This is where the comfort of the piste ends and the high tour begins.

From there, the route leads over the Pfaffenferner, of which only a few remnants remain, up to the Pfaffenjoch. You almost always have to take your skis off for a few meters here. You scramble over boulders until you can strap your skis back on a little later at the Sulzenauferner. Depending on the snow conditions and weather, especially early in the season, it is advisable to rope up here for the upcoming glacier crossing. At the very least, a harness and glacier equipment should be worn in case a misstep unexpectedly ends in a crevasse.

You then cross the glacier flat past the north face of the Zuckerhütl, climb a few more meters and finally reach the ski depot. Time to catch your breath - the altitude is already clearly noticeable here.

Summit assault

Now it's time: Switch to alpine touring mode! Crampons on, ice axe in hand, helmet on - and off to the steep summit ascent! It's especially dangerous when it's busy. Snow drizzle and, in the worst case, falling rocks require increased attention. What's more, many people are confronted with steep high mountain terrain for the first time here, which is why caution and mutual consideration are particularly important. At the end of the challenging ascent, you are rewarded with a spectacular panoramic view of the Dolomites, Stubai and Ötztal Alps.

Descent

The descent from the ski depot via the Sulzenauferner is not very spectacular and is more of a flat traverse. The motto here is: don't get creative. It is advisable to more or less follow the existing tracks, as the glacier is criss-crossed by several crevasses. The Pfaffenferner is then much more enjoyable. It is wide, open and generous and offers plenty of space - and therefore often the chance of a few untracked turns. In the lower section, there are several gullies and variants that lead back to the lowest point of the basin.

Once there, however, the inevitable reality check follows in the form of a view of the counter ascent. At this point at the latest, it becomes clear that the tour is far from over.

Counter-climb

The real antidote to this tour is the counter-climb back to the ski area. Here, too, you can choose between two options, both of which require additional motivation.

Option one leads back to the Fernaulift and can ideally be completed with the support of the Pfaffengrat two-seater chairlift. "Ideally" because it has not yet been in operation this season (as of December 2025) - which occasionally causes the plan to fail more quickly than expected.

Alternatives away from the hustle and bustle

If you want to escape the hustle and bustle at least partially, there are some worthwhile alternatives away from the classic route to the Zuckerhütl.

Descent via the Sulzenauferner

If the snow conditions are good enough, there is a great, long descent over the rugged Sulzenauferner down to the Sulzenauhütte and on to the Grawa Alm.

If the snow conditions are moderate, a shortened variant is possible: Descent to the Sulzenausee lake, followed by a return ascent via the Peiljoch and a final descent back to the Eisgrat middle station of the Stubai Glacier lifts.

Zuckerhütl North

Directly next to the normal route, the route branches off into the Zuckerhütl north face - a short north face to be taken seriously. In summer, you have to climb here on glacier ice, in winter you first have to stomp before the upper part turns into steeper rocky terrain. This route is for alpinists who enjoy a short period of solitude before inevitably meeting up with the rest of the group at the summit. In good snow conditions, the descent via the lower section is particularly rewarding.

Overnight stay at the Hildesheimer Hütte

Probably the most comfortable way to avoid the crowds is to spend the night in the winter room of the Hildesheimer Hütte. If you spend the night here, you will be on your skis early in the morning before the gondolas come to life - and experience the Zuckerhütl in blissful tranquillity. The hut is relatively easy to reach from the ski area and is ideal for a cozy night and a relaxed start to the tour.