SpotCheck | Georgia - CloudBase Hut

The hut

The CloudBase Hut is located at 2260 m above Mestia and is the perfect starting point for adventures. In winter, it attracts visitors with magnificent ski tours and a dream view of the Ushba. In summer, the breathtaking panorama invites you to go hiking. The name says it all: meadows stretch out in front of the hut, providing an ideal launch site for paragliders - to then soar up to cloud base!

The hut was built in 2017 and is located just above the tree line on a broad ridge that extends to the Koruldi Lakes and on to the Koruldi Ridge. It was founded by Andreas Millinger and the respected Georgian mountain guide Nick Phaliani, who still runs it today.

The CloudBase Hut is simple but cozy and offers everything you need for a cozy night in the mountains. Similar to a winter room in an Alpine Club hut, you can look after yourself here. On the lower floor, the "Svan Stove", a simple wood-burning stove, as is traditional in Svaneti, provides cozy warmth. There is seating and sleeping space. You can not only melt snow on its large plate, but also cook - and thanks to the oven, you can even conjure up your own khachapuri (legendary Georgian cheese specialty) with the right ingredients. There are more places to sleep upstairs, but the real highlight is the huge panoramic window: from here, you can look out directly onto the imposing western flank of the 4,858-metre-high Tetnuldi, which glows spectacularly in the evening light. And yes, this steep flank has even been skied - captured in the YouTube film Tetnuldi - a story of the first ski descent by Bekar Phajishvili and Buta Eloshvili.

We park the car at the concrete plant below St. George Church. There is enough snow for us to strap on our skis on the forest road. We make our way to the hut. We follow the forest road for 700 vertical meters, occasionally taking shortcuts around a few bends. Finally, we leave the tree line behind us and shortly afterwards we are standing in front of the snow-covered hut in the middle of a white snowy landscape. A provider from Mestia takes us up in a snowcat - cat skiing is offered to the Koruldi Lakes, which are located above the hut - if you want to take it easy on your legs. But let's be honest, the 700 vertical meters are easy to manage. If you start early, you won't get too baked by the sun on the southern slope and will still have enough energy to enjoy the sunset at the Koruldi Lakes in the evening. It's also good for your conscience and your wallet!

The ascent takes us about two hours. Our pace was probably slowed down a little by the numerous Nutella jars and other treats in our backpacks.

The Chalaadi glacier circuit - a classic

The Chalaadi Glacier Tour is simply a must when you are out and about in the area. One of the most interesting, longest and most epic ski tours in the region, as so beautifully written in the guidebook mentioned above.

It starts at the CloudBase Hut and leads over the broad and flat ridge, past the Koruldi Lakes (2740 m), where the terrain gradually becomes steeper. The tour is very popular, so it rarely needs to be groomed. Many hairpin bends later, we take off our skis just below Koruldi Ridge (3270 m) and carry them a few meters up to the ridge. The huge glacier basin of the Chalaadi Glacier spreads out at our feet, the eastern arm of which originates between the northern summit of the Ushba (4698 m) and the Chatyn-Tau (4411 m). If you still have strength left, you can continue up the Koruldi Ridge: less exposed, steep in places and with easy climbing passages, depending on the snow conditions. There are impressive views of the mighty crevasses of the Chalaadi Glacier.

We climb up to a 3328-metre summit and decide to descend via a steep northern flank that leads us directly onto the glacier. Shortly before the drop-in, we put on our harnesses and equip ourselves with equipment for crevasse rescue - better safe than sorry!

The descent across the glacier is a real highlight - but only if you know how to move in heavily glaciated terrain. You should have a good command of crevasse rescue and the necessary equipment (harness, rope, rope cords, slings, etc.) should of course be included in your luggage. Good weather is also a must, as crevasse-rich glaciers and poor visibility are a dangerous combination.

The tour is a classic for a reason: an impressive panorama and predominantly easy skiing terrain make it particularly attractive. That's why there are so many guides who know their way around and offer this tour. Even a week after the last snowfall, we still find wonderfully preserved powder snow on the glacier, which makes for an enjoyable descent. The old tracks help us to find the right path. We keep to the right and continue downhill until we reach the northern tributary of the Chalaadi glacier. A glance upwards reveals jagged glaciers and huge hanging glaciers. Don't lose your concentration now! The glacier becomes increasingly steep here and caution is required, as there are deep crevasses just a few meters from our track.

After the glacier descent, we continue through a narrow valley. On warm days, you should set off early, otherwise wet snow avalanches from the steep southern slopes could make it unpleasant. Once down from the glacier, the route continues along a playful, winding path out of the valley - almost like a Mario Kart track.

From the end of the valley, it's another five flat kilometers back to the concrete plant where our car is parked. Guided groups are picked up here, as the way back can take a while. But with good skating technique and a good "snow track", you can work your way out quite quickly.

In total, we cover around 1130 meters of as cent and 22 kilometers. It took us about 6 hours - a fantastic tour for anyone who wants to experience something!

Conclusion

The CloudBase Hut above Mestia is an excellent tip for ski touring enthusiasts in winter. The hut serves as a base for spectacular tours, nestled in an incredible mountain panorama characterized by the double summit of Ushba. Thanks to its simple but cozy furnishings, including a traditional wood-burning stove, it provides an authentic mountain experience. In front of this impressive panorama, there are numerous touring options, from classics such as the Chalaadi glacier circuit to less frequented but equally rewarding routes such as the Guli Pass. Those who take on the alpine terrain will be rewarded with magnificent ascents and unforgettable descents.

Unfortunately, a tragic addition is necessary here. A few weeks after our return from Georgia, we received the news that Nick Phaliani had had an accident on the Ushba. Nick was our contact in Mestia and also made our wonderful time at CloudBase Hut possible. While attempting the extremely steep north flank of Ushba for the first time, he crashed on the ascent. He was one of the few Georgian IFMGA-certified mountain guides and, despite his young age, played a leading role in the Georgian mountaineering scene. His death is a great loss for his family, friends and the Georgian mountaineering scene. May he rest in peace. More detailed information on the course of the accident can be found here.