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adventure & travel

Learning to read the snow: avalanche awareness in the Pyrenees

Two-month internship at the "Centre Lauegi d'Aran" avalanche warning service

01/08/2026
Linus Langenbacher
I packed my thick backpack, the giant ice hockey bag and the two-metre-long ski bag onto the Flixbus, hugged my flatmates once again and the big bus sets off. From above, I could see my friends trying in vain to make out which of the darkened windows I had sat down behind. So that was it for Heidelberg, off to the mountains!

A turbulent start

Before the actual internship at the Centre Lauegi began, my friend Alex and I had planned to spend a few days in the mountains. He would then drop me off in Vielha, the largest town in the Val d'Aran and my new home in the Pyrenees.

After his unit day, we started far too late in Toulouse. By the time we arrived at the southern end of the Val d'Aran two and a half hours later, it was already starting to get dark. We had prepared ourselves for the fact that the first ascent to Refugi Besiberri would be strenuous, both in terms of time and weather, but we were not prepared for what actually awaited us.

I lost a ski pole in the river. By the time we gave up the search, it had really got dark. We started the steep climb through the increasingly wild snowfall, taking our headlamps with us. The closer we got to the hut, the stronger the gusting wind became, which we actually wanted to avoid. As we could barely feel our hands, we zig-zagged our way forward without looking at the map more than every few hundred meters. When we finally found our way through the last steep section to the hut after 11 pm, we were both more than relieved.

But the wild stories about this 3-day trip, which was actually intended as a little warm-up, continued. The next day, I triggered a small snow slab. We had misjudged both the spiciness of the avalanche situation and the complexity of the passes, and after a long day we were both glad to arrive at Refugi Restanca at sunset.

After two avalanche noises in the distance and poor visibility, we decided in the morning not to try our luck again, but to take the direct route from the hut to the forest road and then down into the valley.
A pretty wild start to my time in Spain and definitely one that knocked my confidence a bit when it came to planning and safety in the (snowy) mountains.

How did I end up here?

Perhaps not a bad ego check at the start of two months of work experience in the avalanche warning service, during which I wanted to live out my love of snow. Because that's exactly how I ended up here: through my love of snow. Growing up at the foot of the Alps, I was "soaped up" by my older sister on the way to school at an early age and have had a special connection to this wonderful stuff ever since. After giving up my alpine and cross-country skiing careers as hopeless at 17, I got to know the magic of powder skiing and off-piste touring. My year abroad in Norway in particular really fueled this love and also connected me to snow and ice on a scientific level. That's why it was clear to me that the next winter I somehow get time off, I have to spend it in the mountains again, and the more I can do with snow, the better!


Through a friend (greetings go out to Lydia, she also writes articles here) I came across the "Centre Lauegi d'Aran" in the Pyrenees. It is a small region in Catalonia that has historically retained a surprising amount of autonomy due to its isolated location. For example, it operates its own avalanche warning service. A few emails, video calls and some insurance hustle and bustle later, I found myself in Vielha, a place that seemed much more touristy than expected. And yet, as soon as you get away from the hustle and bustle around the hotels and supermarkets in the town center, you can see a real mountain village charm in many corners. The shingle-roofed stone houses, the pine trees and the wide grassy slopes down into the valley reminded me a lot of Ticino.

The first few days - powder and language barriers

The first few days were a mix of language challenges, a warm welcome and a good dose of snow luck. The snow, which had presented us with problems at the weekend, had become more stable in the meantime, so we were able to combine daily observations and snow profiles with brilliant, easy descents. Linguistically, however, I was quite overwhelmed. Especially when we were out and about with other locals who spoke Catalan, Spanish and the local language of the valley, Aranès, but hardly any English or French, communication became really difficult.

I had promised to learn as much Catalan as possible before I arrived, but it wasn't that easy from Germany. As a result, I was often overwhelmed at first - even though I already knew a lot of vocabulary in theory, I could hardly follow conversations. On the one hand, I didn't want to keep asking what the conversation was about or whether someone could translate something for me. On the other hand, I didn't want to be the trainee who just stood there and obviously didn't understand anything.

Little by little, however, things got better. I invested time in online courses and vocabulary flashcards in the evenings and tried to keep up with everything as best I could and talk away, even if it must have sounded pretty confused at times. The team here was very understanding in this respect. Depending on the topic and vocabulary, we sometimes switched between Catalan, English, French and German in a wild mix of languages.

Overall, the three of them made it really easy for me to arrive. I was involved in the entire process right from the start: from the observations on the mountain to the dissemination in the daily bulletin and in blog and social media posts to the data analysis for scientific publications.

What is special about the work in Val d'Aran is that the small region has its own forecasting team. In contrast to many other regions in Europe, data and profiles from local observers are not transmitted to a central office, which then publishes meteorological analyses and the bulletin for a large region. Instead, everything is done locally and from a single source. In the mornings, the team goes out into the field with different members, digs up snow profiles and makes observations. In the afternoons, the bulletin and the publications for the local administration, such as the risk report for the pass roads, are produced from this.

The work in the avalanche warning service

Once I had gradually got to grips with the language, things got really exciting! My tasks were as varied as the job itself: from maintaining weather stations and webcams to public relations work with the local adult education center and creating social media posts to the core of snow science, the field work. I spent a lot of my time in the snow, observing avalanche activity, assessing signs of instability and digging snow profiles - usually with a crystal loupe at the ready.

I've always been the one on a ski tour who has the big snow saw with me and annoys everyone else on the way by trying to dig snow profiles. What fascinates me so much are the infinite possibilities of how snow can form a blanket of snow. Although the ingredients are always the same - hard and soft layers, large and small crystals, round and angular shapes - each snow profile results in a unique situation that is not always easy to interpret. Just a few different initial conditions can lead to completely different results within a day due to the complex moisture and heat transport processes and the metamorphosis of the snow crystals. To begin to understand these subtle differences was incredibly rewarding. And even though I'm still not always sure of the difference between "rounding facets" and "faceting rounds", I've gained an incredible amount of experience and a really solid snow science foundation here in the Pyrenees.

Another aspect that I have learned to appreciate very much is the attention with which you move around the terrain as a forecaster. I've been ski touring myself for a long time and have assessed many individual slopes along the way, but avalanche forecasting requires a much broader perspective.

It's not just about the slope you're on, but about gathering information about the whole area. You try to understand how current and past conditions affect different exposures, elevations and slope characteristics. All this information is later incorporated into the bulletin. Questions are asked along the way such as: To what elevation did the snow get wet today in which exposures? Is the snow transport on the ridge strong enough to form relevant drift snow accumulations overnight? Where did we find surface frost that could form a weak layer under later snowfall?

The indoor side of avalanche forecasting

But life as a forecaster isn't just about field work - I also spent a lot of my time in the office. In addition to analyzing the weather conditions and the meteorological development of the season, my main area of responsibility was data analysis and processing. In addition to some visualizations of the snow profiles recorded during this season, I spent a lot of time verifying an AI system that Centre Lauegi is slowly integrating into its analysis processes. An Italian company, Alpsolut, provides AI-based analysis of the snowpack and avalanche situation for our two main weather stations. However, as their models were trained on data from Livigno, Italy, they do not yet perfectly match the conditions in Val d'Aran.

My role was precisely at this interface - I developed a simple system to monitor model performance by comparing the AI outputs with the human-generated avalanche bulletins. This involved overcoming a few technical hurdles, from automated data retrieval and processing to the compatibility of the two forecast sources. Without a real background in computer science, the learning curve was quite steep, but in the end almost everything worked out.

For example, this visualization compares the main hazard levels estimated by humans (red) and calculated by the AI (blue) at the Sasseuba weather station over the season. You can see that both follow a similar pattern, which indicates that the model recognizes the rough correlations. Nevertheless, the predicted hazard level deviates by one level from human judgment on a large proportion of days.
The graph on the right shows a "Confusion Matrix", which illustrates the hazard level predicted by the model for days with a certain level assessed by humans. It is noticeable that the model has particular difficulties with hazard level 2 and classifies it almost equally often as level 1, 2 or 3. This shows that improvements and fine-tuning are definitely still needed for medium hazard levels.

Phone calls instead of tour partners

Over time, I notice that I make more phone calls than ever before. With my old flat share, my girlfriend and my family. But above all with the people with whom I share ski tour adventures: my friends from my Erasmus time in Norway and the people with whom I made Spitsbergen unsafe. Here in Vielha, I feel a bit disconnected. The city is very lively, but also very touristy. The people I meet spontaneously are usually gone again the following week, which means I don't have any long, emotional or intensive connections outside of work and home. At some point, I have to admit to myself that I miss that. For me, a ski tour is only as good as the group you're with. In addition to the experience itself, it's the shared joy that makes it complete.

I learn an incredible amount here, whether it's out in the terrain or inside evaluating and visualizing the data. I really enjoy the work. And yet I wish I could share these experiences with friends directly on site. To go out myself at the weekend, try out what I've learned and laugh about the best moments of the day together over a good meal in the evening. I long to share my experiences and adventures with people more directly.
Towards the end of my time in the Pyrenees, however, I get exactly that again: my buddy Kyle comes over and despite the really bad weather, we spend three days outside - in search of powder, couloirs and natural features.

Cyclone Jana

Before the end of my season, things will get really exciting again in terms of avalanches in mid-March. After a winter with little snow so far and characterized by angular crystals, the low-pressure system Jana is expected to bring up to 70 cm of fresh snow within 3 days, triggering a rather tricky avalanche situation. At the peak of the storm, we are issuing avalanche warning level 4 for the areas above the tree line, as the cyclone's strong winds will also promote the accumulation of drift snow.

However, despite the unfavorable conditions, the deep snow is attracting freeriders to the mountains in what has been a rather disappointing snow year so far. There have been several avalanche accidents in the area around the ski resort. In the evening, we learn from the local rescue services that an accident on Montlude in the north of our region has ended fatally.

As a team, we discuss what conclusions we should draw from the situation. A day on which accidents occur more frequently always raises the question of whether the situation has been correctly assessed and communicated. However, the avalanche report actually painted a clear picture of the situation: "Due to the fresh snow and wind, many medium to large avalanches are expected. A lot of experience and caution is required to move around in unsecured areas".

When we visit the southern, hardest-hit areas in the days following the storm to assess the activity during the peak and map the avalanches, the picture we had predicted is confirmed: two size 4 avalanches, i.e. avalanches that can destroy even large buildings and forest areas, reach the valley floor and several other size 3 avalanches now dominate the valley landscape.

Almost all the steep slopes show avalanches, with deposits piling up below them. I am deeply impressed and affected. Of course, I've seen pictures of large avalanches before, and I've even seen one or two myself. But the combination of following (and predicting) the situation so closely, being out and about in the region almost every day, and knowing about the fatal accident two days earlier, makes me feel the consequences much more clearly.

Farewell

Fortunately, I still have two weeks with better conditions and less stress to say goodbye to my internship. In order to finish my work, I end up spending more time in the office trying to find better solutions for my programs, which haven't been very user-friendly so far. In the last week, however, I go out a few more times and can enjoy the snow before heading home again.

A very, very big thank you goes to Montse, Jordi and Sara for how lovingly they welcomed me into the team, as well as to Conselh Generau, who made this internship possible for me.

-Adéu, jo tornaré!

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