Ski Workshop | Binding adjustment - Touring bindings

Touring bindings

In general, touring bindings can be divided into three types:

• Frame bindings (e.g. Marker Tour F, Fritschi Diamir Scout)

• Hybrid bindings (e.g. Atomic/Salomon/Armada Shift, Marker Duke Pt)

• Pin bindings (e.g. Marker Alpinist, Dynafit Rotation, ATK Raider)

Frames and hybrid bindings can generally be adjusted in the same way as normal alpine bindings (see article). As pin bindings work differently, they also need to be adjusted differently. Pin bindings offer the great advantage over frame and hybrid bindings that they can be built particularly light due to their design. The disadvantages are power transmission and the riding experience, but above all safety. In general, high elasticity and strong restoring forces prevent false releases. Pin bindings usually have less elasticity than alpine bindings and are therefore known to be more prone to false releases.

Adjusting the sole length

In order to set the sole length correctly, the type of binding must be taken into account, whereby the sole length is set exclusively via the heel piece. Pin bindings with an adjustable heel length can be divided into 3 categories:

1. Heel length adjustable on the adjustment plate: Adjustment plates are mounted on the ski with the binding. They have a significantly longer hole pattern, between which you can then adjust your rear jaw to the available clearance. Using the appropriate screwdriver, loosen all the screws that fix the rear jaw to the plate. When adjusting the sole length, the distance between the boot and the heel piece must be taken into account. Manufacturers supply a spacer for this purpose, which can be used to set the ideal distance. The spacer must be placed between the heel piece and the heel of the ski boot. If the distance is correct, I can tighten the screws again (it is best to tighten them diagonally and then check again that the distance is correct). Example photo: Adjustment plate for Dynafit Superlite 150)

2. Heel length adjustable on the heel piece: The heel piece can be adjusted via a long thread, the screw for this is usually located at the very end of the heel piece close to the topsheet of the ski. The distance between the boot and the heel piece must be correct, which is why the manufacturer supplies a spacer that is placed between the rear jaw and the heel of the ski boot. The heel piece should then be screwed forward until the distance is correct.

3. The third variant allows the contact pressure on the heel piece to be adjusted; this only applies to bindings with a (weight-reduced) alpine heel piece. The heel piece can be moved forwards and backwards using a screw, the correct contact pressure is set using the indicator (King Pin: screw is on the same level as the housing, Tecton: similar to Fritschi pin rear jaws, a gap of 1 mm must be set. Here is a video as an explanation.

Setting the binding

Once the sole length has been set correctly, we turn our attention to adjusting the bindings. As mentioned above, these are categorised and treated as light, medium and heavy toe and heel bindings.

When talking about the topic of toe pieces in pin bindings, it is of course also important to talk about the generally controversial topic of "locking the toe pieces when skiing down" .

Locking Yes or No?

Unlike alpine bindings, pin bindings can be locked. This function is essential for ascending, but there are also situations during the descent where it makes sense to lock the pin binding. If you lock your binding, you prevent the lateral release of the binding in the event of a fall and therefore risk a higher risk of injury. Locking the binding should therefore be carefully considered! In my opinion, there are few situations in which locking the binding actually makes sense. I would like to briefly explain a few that come to mind.

Danger of slipping: There is a risk of slipping if the slope gradient and snow conditions make it impossible to slow down independently without skis. By locking the binding, the loss of skis can be avoided and slipping can be stopped more quickly. Even if there is a risk of slipping, you should not carelessly lock your bindings, but only if slipping would have serious consequences (e.g. if the slope becomes so steep that you would fall extremely quickly).

Risk of falling: When there is a risk of falling, there is often also a risk of slipping, which is accompanied by exposure. So if a slip would inevitably mean a fall with serious consequences (serious bone fractures or even death), locking the binding is an option in order to better slow down the uncontrolled slide. A false release can also lead to uncontrolled slipping in exposed terrain, so if losing a ski would increase the consequences in the event of a fall, it may be worth locking the binding.

However, in my opinion, locking the binding also has many disadvantages that should be taken into consideration. In addition to the obvious disadvantages (increased risk of injury, for example), the inserts in the boot wear out more quickly in locked mode on the descent, especially when jumping or skiing on very hard icy snow. Another disadvantage is that the skis that do not come off act as an anchor in an avalanche and could increase the burial depth. Personally, I very rarely find locking the toe piece useful.

Now that we have looked at the settings and the advantages and disadvantages of different pin bindings, let's look at a few more details.

Here are a few more videos to watch:

ATK U-Spring exchange

Extensive video on the ATK Freeraider Evo by Dave Searle

Fritschi Vipec Evo customisation.

Fritschi Tecton customisation and DIN setting

Dynafit Rotation/Radical Anpassung